Hello friend! Fancy making the Serendipity Blouse sleeveless? It’s easy peasy. In this tutorial I will show you two ways to achieve the summery look. The first will be a lined shirt, meaning the torso is lined as well as the bodice. The second does not line the torsos, rather finishing the sleeve underarms with bias tape. Look over both to see which suits your needs best! Just like the patterns I will go over every step and provide detailed photos to walk you through.
Need the pattern? Click here to purchase the Serendipity Blouse Digital Pattern or save over 30% and buy the Serendipity Collection including those gorgeous trousers!
For both versions you will use the video or pattern tutorial as a supplement for these tutorials – so have them open in another window for quick reference.
Lined Sleeveless Serendipity Blouse Tutorial
The lined version is perfect for lightweight fabrics such as Swiss dot, batiste, cotton lawn, or voile. In the picture above I used a Robert Kaufman Swiss dot and and a batiste for the lining.
What extras you’ll need:
For this variation of the blouse you will fabric for the lining
You will still be using a 3/8″ or 10mm seam allowance unless otherwise noted.
First, you will need to cut a front and back torso from your lining fabric.
Now follow steps 1-4 from the preparing the bodice section on the pattern. Leave the buttonhole placement for the end. This will bring you to the point that you will sew the lining and outer bodice pieces together. The only difference here is that you will be including the armholes in the stitch. Start sewing at the bottom of one armhole, across the shoulder, around the neckline, across the second shoulder, and then down the second armhole. Then you will sew the other armhole where you joined the shoulders.
I like to start sewing at the curve of the armhole right above where the bodice is sewn to the torsos as shown in the above image. It makes it easier to press the allowance up.
Now fold and press the bottom edge of the bodices to the wrong side by 1/2″.
make sure the bottom edges are still turned in.
Now with the right sides together sew the front torsos together at the armholes. Then repeat on the back torsos.
Clip into the seam allowance.
Turn right side out and press the armholes.
Hem the bottom of the front torsos by pressing the lining and outer torso pieces to the wrong side by 1/4″ and then by 1/2″ and stitching right along the inner most folded edge. I chose to do this with both pieces together like shown in the image – but you could hem them them separately if you wish. Repeat on the back torsos.
Add a gathering stitch to the top of the front torso and gather to match the length of the front bodice.
Tuck the gathered edge of the front torso inside the lining and outer fabric of the bodices, overlapping the edges by 1/2″. Pin in place and sew right along the bodice edge making a topstitch. I like to use a slightly longer stitch length for this. Press the stitch.
This is how it will look when your finished. Now repeat those steps to sew the back torso to the back bodice.
Next, place the front and back pieces with the right sides together and align the sides, pin, and sew. Then finish the seams.
Okay, we’re almost finished! Crazy how quickly this comes together right?
Now, as instructed in the pattern under “sewing the button shoulder” determine the fold needed on the back bodice at the shoulder and pin.
Now here’s my little secret. I don’t like to measure for buttonholes! I like to put the buttons on the shoulder where they look good to my eye, mark at the top with a fabric marker, remove the buttons and extend that line the length of the buttons.
Then just sew the buttonholes where you had marked, and sew the buttons to the back shoulder under the buttonholes.
Or use the faux buttonhole technique as described on the pattern!
Unlined Sleeveless Serendipity Blouse Tutorial
(first, isn’t she the cutest! These Serendipity Capri’s are one of my favorite!)
For medium weight fabrics you can finish the armholes with bias tape instead of lining the torsos.
What extra’s you will need:
About a quarter yard of 1/4″ or 1/2″ double fold bias tape – the 1/2″ will give you more room to work with.
You will use a 3/8″ or 10mm seam allowance throughout unless otherwise noted.
Follow steps 1-4 on the pattern from the “preparing the bodices” to the point where you have the shoulders sewn and the bodices pinned together. When you sew the bodices together, you will be including the armholes in the stitch. Use the instructions in the lined sleeveless version above, with the exception of pressing the bottom edge of the bodice over to get to the point that your bodice looks like the above image.
Turned out and pressed, place the front bodice facing away from you with the right side up as shown in the image.
Sew your gathering stitch across the top of the front torso and gather so that it extends 3/8″ on each side of the bodice and pin to the front bodice with the right sides together.
In this image you can see how the torso extends past the bodice by the 3/8″. Now sew the two together.
Press the seam allowance up and topstitch right along the bodice edge. I like to use a slightly linger stitch length for this. Press the stitch.
Repeat on the back torso and bodice.
Then hem the torsos by pressing the bottom edge to the wrong side 1/4″ and then by 1/2″ and sew along the inner most folded edge.
Now with the right sides together, sew the front and back pieces together at the sides, leaving the armholes alone for now. Finish you seam.
Place one side facing right side up as shown in the image and cut a piece of bias tape to match the length of the opening.
Unfold the bias tape and press in half at the center crease.
Working on the right side of the fabric, line up the raw edges of the armhole and bias tape and pin.
Now sew about 1/4″ to 3/8″ from the folded edge along the armhole. I find it easiest to do this by turning the shirt wrong side out and sewing from inside the armhole as shown in the image.
Now trim the seam allowance by half.
Turn the bias tape over to the wrong side concealing the raw edge and press. If you are using 1/2″ bias tape, you will have more bias tape then shown above to work with. Pin if needed, then sew right along the bias tape to secure.
There are a couple ways of finishing an armhole with bias tape, this is just my preferred method. You can use other variations as well!
Also, in case your curious, you can enclose the seam of the unlined version too-just add the bias tape to the armhole before you insert the torsos into the bodices. You can also do an exposed seam on the lined version by using the instructions on the pattern.
There you have it! Pretty easy, right?
Now you need to come share your beautiful top over on our Sewlosopher’s Circle Private Facebook Group – we love a little eye candy! If you have not joined the group just request an invite so we can add you!
If you have any questions let me know in the comments!